Going to do a flush this winter and maybe some of Roe's silicone hoses. Any tips or recommendations on the flush as far as procedure, additives, coolant brand etc?
Simms, You'll get a lot of different opinions on the coolant brand. I read a recent Car and Driver and selected the Zerex G-05. It was about $10 a bottle at Autozone. It is gold in color and is compatible with Green or Red.
Warm climates or for tracking, use Zerex Racing Super coolant. Protection only, no freeze protection so drain before winter.
Don't ever mix green and red. If you do decide to go to a red from green, I'd recommend going to the dealer for a total flush with a system.
The hoses with bleeder valves are awesome. If you don't use them, jack right front of car up when burping.
Flush procedure is different depending on whether you only want distilled water in system or not. I only wanted distilled so it was a pain. Many drain and refills were needed.
-Put the car on ramps.
-Unclamp the lower rad hose. Don't try to use the screw in the rad, as it is most likely frozen and can damage if you try to remove it.
-Drain all the coolant.
-Flush the system with a hose (Don't worry, tap it's not staying in there) until she runs clear from the bottom
-Re-clamp hose for a bity
-Fill with distilled water only (75c per gallon at publix)
-Run the engine for a minute, keeping a close eye on the gauge
-Let the engine cool back down, and drain the distilled. You may see some deposites and crap come with it in the coolant. This is OK, as hopefully you just got most of it
-Mix your new coolant and distilled, refill the system.
Now, do you have a schrader valve mod for the upper rad hose? if not, you are going to need to warm the engine up and take the cap off the system (NOT HOT, Warm only). Compress the upper rad hose and you will see/hear bubbles in the res. The fluid level will begin to fall. Top off every few "burps" until you get no bubbles. Repeat the process with a warm engine again and make sure there is no bubbles.
The schrader valve helps since you can bleed the system at it's highest point w/o much effort. Easy mod too.
-Put the car on ramps.
-Unclamp the lower rad hose. Don't try to use the screw in the rad, as it is most likely frozen and can damage if you try to remove it.
-Drain all the coolant.
-Flush the system with a hose (Don't worry, tap it's not staying in there) until she runs clear from the bottom
-Re-clamp hose for a bity
-Fill with distilled water only (75c per gallon at publix)
-Run the engine for a minute, keeping a close eye on the gauge
-Let the engine cool back down, and drain the distilled. You may see some deposites and crap come with it in the coolant. This is OK, as hopefully you just got most of it
-Mix your new coolant and distilled, refill the system.
Now, do you have a schrader valve mod for the upper rad hose? if not, you are going to need to warm the engine up and take the cap off the system (NOT HOT, Warm only). Compress the upper rad hose and you will see/hear bubbles in the res. The fluid level will begin to fall. Top off every few "burps" until you get no bubbles. Repeat the process with a warm engine again and make sure there is no bubbles.
The schrader valve helps since you can bleed the system at it's highest point w/o much effort. Easy mod too.
MM
Thanks MadMaxx, I plan on installing the Roe silicone hoses with the bleeder valve when I do this. How will this make burping easier?
You depress it (like a bicycles air valve) and it will let the air escape with a minimum amount of coolant. Do this over and over till nothing but coolant comes out.
You depress it (like a bicycles air valve) and it will let the air escape with a minimum amount of coolant. Do this over and over till nothing but coolant comes out.
Does anyone make a sacraficial anode for a viper?
MM
You can get an anode radiator cap from Roe Racing.
It's listed under Viper Maintenance on the Roe website.
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