What we should do is wait till I get the splitter pattern prototype done so it can be checked too. We'll work out the logistics and details on that later. Regardless, I will need to elevate the car somewhat to get underneath and eyeball stuff. If you are of limited availability I can throw my ramps in big red and head to you. <<-- option
In other related news, I got my cardboard splitter pattern out of the attic this morning. I was going to maybe deal with it today. <<-- option didn't happen
More related news. Super Bowl is Sunday. Guess who's smoking some ribs and drinking more of those delicious Miller Lite 16oz screw top cans?
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coiner of biggest, sprinkler boy coiner of ~TommyWesterner~ discoverer that the 2 button rep system has too many options
lol....ill make some time and make it out. no need to move out big red.
ill need an excuse to slam some beers and leave the house in the following weeks
Can you post a picture of your current design? everybody seems to love it. orI if it's already posted somewhere, Can you point me in the right direction, I'd really like to see it.
Hey Dave, on this new splitter it wont have the liner correct? ( Like the portion on your old one where it had the mobil 1 logo on the side)- I really really love that liner...just makes it more bad ass...Im assuming the current design wont have the liner right?
Just a quick update in lieu of some more comprehensive items to address, and said update is, my pattern is on it's way to the rep where they will digitize it and generate the prototype. Probably the most important thing I could be doing in regards to real progress.
As I have a few minutes to throw some more thoughts at this project I thought I would mention I was surprised that only one person so far was interested in the full splitter. As opposed to the one I built the first time sans my pics, that has the ACR inset.
I am thinking about for my car going with the full splitter too, but would prefer it have support cables. And here's why. My first one, the ACR inset style, was solidly mounted to the fascia from underneath. I mean solidly. And the one being planned now would be no less. Anyway, back to my first one, it made it clear as when I put some body weight on it i.e. my foot, that the nose of the car flexed. Yup, it is urethane rubber up there, and yup it is supposed to do that. But I would with a higher downforce profile want to control that deformation and that is where the cables come in.
A couple of things on my list for cabling is one, mock up some stuff and look at trajectory angles from the projected nose of the car up into the upper front frame horn area. I really don't want cables going through the nose, and I'm sure you would not either.
Secondly, would be investigating hardware components for the cables. Please feel free to post links if you have any leads for the hardware. The Tegris rep said that although they list it at their website, that they really don't supply universal stuff for that. All custom. I think I've looked at Jeg's and Summit before and was not impressed, but probably should look again. It is understood that the upper bracket at the frame would be a custom, but that is something I do well at myself. Dave = awesome bracket fabricator.
I'd love a full splitter for the track, and but it's not so practical for the street. Having a removable insert would obviously be the best. I have seen plastic molds made with a strip of steel impregnated inside. Obviously it can be done with CF as well. That would allow an insert to be attached solid for the track. Perhaps you contact has some ideas on how it could be done.... For not too much added cost perhaps. :-)
Attached is a pic of my set up, although it is of my track car. The splitter utilizes cables in order to keep it off the ground during high speed efforts. Although the bells were utilized from the Comp Coupe, the remainder of the cables were made through a marine company that makes sail boat components. There is an adjustment piece that allows for increasing tension on the cables. One thing to keep in mind is that mounting the splitter to the front fascia can lead to extensive damage of the fascia should the splitter hit or dig into the ground. I learned that lesson the hard way. Since that picture was taken the front splitter is not mounted to the front facia at all but to parts of the frame only and suspended in the front by cables. McMaster-Carr may have some of the splitter cable parts you could use. McMaster-Carr
Best of luck-Jonathan
Thanks Anarchy. I've also attached a pic of the Factory Comp Coupe Splitter cables. They are very pricey, last price was close to $250 about 5 years ago. Similar systems utilizing the same basic design could be made for a fraction of the factory price. An adjustable turnbuckle is the main component.
-JM
I have personal experience with what happens when splitter "A" and fascia "B" in their bolted together unison, tango with something typically considered unmovable. The extension of red's above is well in excess of what I would use on the street for a full sweep model. Said practical street extension being 3" in front of the nose. You would have to be doing something that in the end, it really wouldn't have mattered or not if you had a splitter or not, to tear up the fascia too, with 3" poking out. That full race version above on a lowered stance is definitely not street friendly. Or off road friendly.
The good news is that as I have mentioned previously, the nose will flex, upward as well as downward. The cables will allow the upward flex, and constrain the downward flex. If the terrain changes enough so underneath, the mounting I had will ultimately raise the car via the suspension movement.. The splitter is not going to come off. I can prove that
I have personal experience with what happens when splitter "A" and fascia "B" in their bolted together unison, tango with something typically considered unmovable. The extension of red's above is well in excess of what I would use on the street for a full sweep model. Said practical street extension being 3" in front of the nose. You would have to be doing something that in the end, it really wouldn't have mattered or not if you had a splitter or not, to tear up the fascia too, with 3" poking out. That full race version above on a lowered stance is definitely not street friendly. Or off road friendly.
The good news is that as I have mentioned previously, the nose will flex, upward as well as downward. The cables will allow the upward flex, and constrain the downward flex. If the terrain changes enough so underneath, the mounting I had will ultimately raise the car via the suspension movement.. The splitter is not going to come off. I can prove that
Not cables, but look under "parts" then "radius rod guide". This may not allow enough up movement, but I would think you'd want something solid so you don't end up with a splitter that starts to flutter up and down at high speeds.
Although I don't have a Gen 2, I've been told that for high speed cars, the splitter should be able to be stood on with no deflection downward. I can't see that happening without some sort of cable or radius rod system tied into something pretty stout. I have heard of a modded Gen 4 ACR that did have the stock splitter detach during a high speed "Mexican" road test (over 190 mph). At speeds over 150 mph, there is a lot of weight pushing down on that sucker.
Good luck with your project.
George
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2009 Coupe, Red, Six Spokes, Navi
Quick update. I heard from the Tegris rep and they will have my template fully processed shortly. Pretty good news as this is the peak of their busy season and side projects are tough to justify during that time.
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