tips on removing the tranny now. lose of clutch pressure
So my clutch pedal has been slowly weaker with a lot of free play before you can feel it build pressure when pushing in. I topped off my reservoir and it has remained full and I have no visible leaks. Anything I should be looking for? Is it time for a new slave or master cylinder?
See my last post.
Last edited by brentsGTS; December 29th, 2012 at 09:23 PM.
So my clutch pedal has been slowly weaker with a lot of free play before you can feel it build pressure when pushing in. I topped off my reservoir and it has remained full and I have no visible leaks. Anything I should be looking for? Is it time for a new slave or master cylinder?
I would say its the slave. Have you taking the inspection plate off to see if there is a slow leak? Also does the pedal seem to be changing it engaging point? Maybe try bleeding the system
I haven't looked yet but there doesn't seem to be any leaks. Yes the engagement point has changed and is nor right at the floor. There is about 5"s of dead play before there is any resistance.
You have a leak. Hydraulic leaks are small. The fluid is probably still inside the dust boot. I find that when there is a leak in the system, the fluid is usually black from the broken down seals and absorbing ambient moisture. You can bleed the system and it will work fine for a while until air gets in again.
I went and bought a new slave and the tranny jack that everyone uses but how the hell is everything getting to the top bolts connecting the tranny to the bell housing?? Anyone got a tip? Keep in mind I'm not using air tools.and what's with the two "ears" coming off the passenger side of the tranny that are right snug to the body?. Are they needed?.
I went and bought a new slave and the tranny jack that everyone uses but how the hell is everything getting to the top bolts connecting the tranny to the bell housing?? Anyone got a tip? Keep in mind I'm not using air tools.and what's with the two "ears" coming off the passenger side of the tranny that are right snug to the body?. Are they needed?.
Have you read dave's how-to in detail? It's all there. You just need enough extensions ( & maybe a Ujoint - can't remember) to get far enough back to get a ratchet or breaker bar to turn those top bolts.
I thought that the ears were on the drivers side but, its been quite a while. Dave's way to get around the ears problem is to use a wedge and jack to push the engine to the side so the trans will clear the frame. I guess maybe I didn't read that first; but, I sawzalled off the ears instead. I figured that they were just for some other car's use of the trans. It came out easily then. Others have used the wedge and thought that way was good.
Well great success, old beat up slave is out and new guy is in and everything Is hooked up. All I got left is attach line to the slave and reinstall transmission tunnel etc. I think all together it took me 7 hours in my garage by myself. Not too shabby. Next time should only take 4-5 I'd say. Thanks for all the help guys.
^^^ Sounds about right. If you do some chassis detail work that might throw in a few hours, but otherwise once you've got it down, it's an afternoon job.
Alright Dave I've got one for you why will my clutch still not build up? I even tried slowly pushing the pedal. I've been trying to bleed it out using the same method you did in your write up but using a hand vacuum pump instead of the minivac. I've got nothing. In fact I can't get any fluid movement at all? I can't get anything to pull through. Does pedal position play a roll? I've tried both. I know my master is getting fluid cause I pulled the lineof2f it real fast to check and yup made a mess like I expected. Is my master shot??? Wtf....
The line from the master to the slave is a dry break type connection. It sounds like you do not have it mated correctly, because if it is not, it won't pass fluid into the slave.
I assume on the bleed port - the one that takes a 7/16 wrench to undo - that you are unscrewing it about one turn to get fluid extracted?
Can't imagine that pedal position or master cylinder condition would prevent or influence the ability to pull fluid out the slave bleed port.
Also... the slaves I've gotten have already had some fluid in them and when you mate the tranny that compresses the fluid in the slave to the point that the dry break would not connect. Open the bleed port to purge any pressure and THEN mate the line from the master.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
