Change of plans going back to N/A will I be disappointed
Well the deal on the second Paxton kit fell through. So after talking to Greg good we are just going n/a 10:5.1. I guess I could hold on longer but the car has been down for 6 months waiting on a kit and I just want it running. Plus I could use the money for the house refi. So to the point, I'm a little let down but do you think it will be as fun as if it had a paxton?
Well I finally got my greg good heads and cam and my car is at A&C being put put back together. We have run in to some trouble getting things to run right and it is not yet making the power I was hoping for. So far it is making 572 to the wheels but I will not quit until its making at least 580. I do have to say the car sounds nasty as hell! Im very excited about the build. I have not driven my car for 6 months. I know that Todd will get the bugs worked out. He always takes great care of me and his finished product is always worth it. The cam that we were sent may be too aggressive. We are trouble shooting some other things first but I know we will hit my goal. 600 seems a bit lofty on a gen II but if any of you have any ideas on squeezing the extra power out I am open to suggestions.
Does your garage say "is it in yet" when you pull your car in?
What intake do you have? On JMB's website, it looked like he went to the Gen III style intake even on Gen IIs, hence my 600 estimate. With a Gen II intake, I think your numbers (around 580) sound pretty good. You will just have a little more down low.
Shit, the numbers are that high? Not to hijack the thread, but my car has JM heads (not Stryker, but his Stage II CNC program for the stock casting), a Greg Good-spec Comp Cam, B&B headers, Corsa 3" catback with gutted cats, 70mm Accufabs and the JMB box. I can get the exact specs on the cam, but what should I be looking at ballpark?
You were going to get a superchager before this is cheaper than that so that does not make sense. If I keep the nitrous controller I can knock $400 off the kit. And I will put a RPM safety switch in it place that will turn it on and off at full TPS and turn it off if there is a miss shift or over rev
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