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Clearance issue on driver's side turnout

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Clearance issue on driver's side turnout
Old December 22nd, 2012, 01:48 PM   #1
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Clearance issue on driver's side turnout

I've got 99% of the exhaust done on the car. A buddy was helping with the final touches on welding today and the driver's side turnout rests maybe 1/4" above the frame. I started the car and could immediately feel the rattling.

I haven't checked the motor mount yet. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for getting a little more clearance (aside from the obvious frame cutting)? The tech that helps me said to be sure and pull up on each header pipe as I tightened the bolts down, so that's already done. I didn't know if there was anything else to check for or do to remedy this.

Silver lining: I started that fucker and the only leaks were from the O2s I forgot to screw back in. Sumbitch is LOUD. I'll get a video once I get it buttoned up.
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Old December 22nd, 2012, 02:03 PM   #2
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Old December 22nd, 2012, 02:50 PM   #3
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Had the same issue on my old Roe car Jason, I added a few shims that I made to the motor mount, raised things up about 1/8 inch and it solved my problem. You could also dent the exhaust a bit. If you have 1/4" of clearance you shouldn't need much more(unless your motor mounts are shot). Put up a video, I want to hear it.

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Old December 22nd, 2012, 05:13 PM   #4
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I have replacement motor mounts sitting around, so if they're busted I can replace them.

It's funny...the passenger side sits perfectly in the middle of the hole, but the driver's side is way down there. They're B&Bs.

I'll try and get a video tonight after I get the O2s in there and find the fuel leak. I thought the gas smell was a little too strong for just being a cold start and the computer relearning. It took a while but I've got a slow leak by the fuel pressure relief valve.
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Old December 24th, 2012, 07:29 PM   #5
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I leveled and shimmed my engine to center the turnouts.
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Old December 24th, 2012, 08:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasontiff View Post
I have replacement motor mounts sitting around, so if they're busted I can replace them.

It's funny...the passenger side sits perfectly in the middle of the hole, but the driver's side is way down there. They're B&Bs.

I'll try and get a video tonight after I get the O2s in there and find the fuel leak. I thought the gas smell was a little too strong for just being a cold start and the computer relearning. It took a while but I've got a slow leak by the fuel pressure relief valve.

Hey Jason,
If your mounts are the OEMs, I guarantee they are fucked. Get a new set in there and you should solve your clearance issues. Better yet, get one poly mount from Woodhouse and you're done! Really, you only need one side, the side that torques like hell.

Last edited by 99RT10&GTS; December 24th, 2012 at 08:07 PM.
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Old December 24th, 2012, 09:30 PM   #7
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Badass...thanks, guys. I'll start with replacing the mounts and shim from there.


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Old December 25th, 2012, 08:08 AM   #8
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Intake Before (looking toward front bumper)...



Intake After...



DS Before...



DS After...



PS Before...



PS After...



Shims, 0.090 steel (or thinner, can't remember fer sure), homemade by the master...

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Old December 25th, 2012, 09:37 PM   #9
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Old January 7th, 2013, 12:33 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99RT10>S View Post
Hey Jason,
If your mounts are the OEMs, I guarantee they are fucked. Get a new set in there and you should solve your clearance issues. Better yet, get one poly mount from Woodhouse and you're done! Really, you only need one side, the side that torques like hell.
Ding, ding, ding.

I tackled this last night. The driver's side (the low side) was torn. With the new one in there it sits just like the other side does. I'm stoked...the car shook like a motherfucker when I got it because that mount was torn AND ol' boy had thrown a poly mount in for the trans but kept OE rubber mounts up front. It should be just the right amount of Parkinsons-esque now with new rubber mounts all around.

There is a good write-up on what you need on the mOrg by ViperTony. Pics are gone but I didn't need them. I will add that if you have B&Bs the whole "don't need to remove your headers" part is bullshit. I had to remove 6 of them to get the clearance I needed, and had I known ahead of time I would have pulled the passenger valve cover too so I could get #2 completely out of my way.

If your mounts are original there is no way you're getting around using a bench vise, so make sure you invest in that if you don't have one, and make sure you have a pretty fucking big breaker bar for the 3/4" nuts on the mounts. It took quite a bit of PB Blaster, some time and some serious leverage to pop those fuckers off.
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Old January 7th, 2013, 07:35 AM   #11
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[QUOTE=dave6666;1575412]Intake Before (looking toward front bumper)...



Intake After...



DS Before...



DS After...



PS Before...



PS After...



Shims, 0.090 steel (or thinner, can't remember fer sure), homemade by the master...

[/QUOT

Shims look exactly like the ones I made Jason, looks good!
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Old January 7th, 2013, 11:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martyb View Post
Shims look exactly like the ones I made Jason, looks good!
Them's some Dave shims. My motor wound up sitting level enough for my tastes with new motor mounts, no shims were needed.

Normally I'd take credit, but Dave said he's baking me a pie in the T.I. thread.
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