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Sway Bar End Links Replacement

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Old December 6th, 2012, 10:10 PM   #21
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3 foot..?? Mine was more like 4 foot 3/4" drive... Gone!!!
DAMN that's a huge bitch!

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Old December 7th, 2012, 01:04 AM   #22
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Here you go.

You will notice how long the front threads are. I will chop about a 1/2" off and clean up the threads afterwards.

Is there any difference as to how the car handles?? I have no clue until I can drive my car again. As for the rears, those appear to be identical and really clean up things when you don't have those split boots.

I don't particularly like how the moog boots are on the fronts, they just kind of sit on there and nothing really prevents the grease from escaping, more like a dust boot. We'll have to see if any grease leaks out after I put a couple hundred miles on them.

For the price, I would definitely replace the rears with these, as for the fronts unless someone has tried them out yet and can give you some feedback, I would hold on those for the time being.

On Rock Auto 1998 DODGE VIPER Stabilizer Bar Link it has a part listed for the fronts and the pic it shows looks identical to the OEM's. If these moog's I have make a mess, I'm going to try and order one of these.

RAYBESTOS Part # 5451839



Here's some pics of the rears on the car




The fronts



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Last edited by Twinscrewd; December 7th, 2012 at 01:31 AM.
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Old December 7th, 2012, 01:08 AM   #23
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DAMN that's a huge bitch!


That's what she said!
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Old December 7th, 2012, 06:24 AM   #24
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Thanks Twinscrewd!
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Old December 7th, 2012, 11:19 AM   #25
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Without physically looking to see if the sway bar links or bushings are broken, what are some signs of worn sway bar links or bushings?

Does the car feel "floaty"? Does the rear end get unsettled going over bumps?

Or is it something you would only notice during hard cornering?
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Old December 7th, 2012, 11:30 AM   #26
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Mine are cracked to hell but I don't have any issues yet. It will start to make clunking sounds once the joints have been infiltrated with gravel and water.


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Old December 7th, 2012, 11:37 AM   #27
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Mine are cracked to hell but I don't have any issues yet. It will start to make clunking sounds once the joints have been infiltrated with gravel and water.


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I don't have any noise, but the rear end has seemed a little "floaty" lately. When I go over an imperfection in the road, instead of the shocks just absorbing the jolt, it feels like the rear end moves side to side a little. Takes a while for the car to settle.

The shocks aren't leaking or anything. Not sure what else would cause the side-to-side sway feeling after hitting a bump.
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Old December 7th, 2012, 11:39 AM   #28
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Just take 1 wheel off and you will see clearly if the end links are jacked.


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Old December 7th, 2012, 11:54 AM   #29
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The sway bar links are subject to the same stresses as the ball joints, but without having to turn like in the front, nor to support the entire weight of the vehicle like the ball joints. So I guess you can say they get beat on a little. If they were actually really bad, as in worn and sloppy, I would check the ball joints too.

The main purpose of the sway bar is vehicle control when cornering, on curves, and on large bumps. If you are noticing handling issues on seemingly minor things, I'd look elsewhere first, like tire pressure and wear, differential mounts (check the bolts), and control arm bushings. As well as your shocks. Shocks don't have to leak to be worn, although that is a common sign of wear or failure.
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Old December 7th, 2012, 01:57 PM   #30
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The sway bar links are subject to the same stresses as the ball joints, but without having to turn like in the front, nor to support the entire weight of the vehicle like the ball joints. So I guess you can say they get beat on a little. If they were actually really bad, as in worn and sloppy, I would check the ball joints too.

The main purpose of the sway bar is vehicle control when cornering, on curves, and on large bumps. If you are noticing handling issues on seemingly minor things, I'd look elsewhere first, like tire pressure and wear, differential mounts (check the bolts), and control arm bushings. As well as your shocks. Shocks don't have to leak to be worn, although that is a common sign of wear or failure.
Thanks. We had the car on a lift to bleed the brakes and tried to check everything over. But next time I get it up in the air, I'm going to pay closer attention to the sway bar ends, the bushings, etc.

I appreciate the tips. I may just buy all the sway bar links and bushings anyway. The car is a 1998. Even if they're not destroyed, the car would probably benefit from some new ones.
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