The previous Viper owners must not have cared about swirl marks but I hate them and try to do my best to keep any of my cars as clean as I can. I tried going over the whole Viper with clay bar, wash, then did a coat of Meguirs 105 ultra cut which is about a 1200 grit however that did not really get the marks out.
My main question is would something like a 2000 grit do the trick? I am really not sure what speed to use or how hard to push down on the porter cable to keep from messing up the paint.
You are polishing. You need to compound then polish. Use a forced random orbital for best results. I have a Makita BO6040. Flex also makes a good tool.
The stuff that I have that was recommended after consulting with several sources is Mequiars #105 Ultra-Cut for compounding and Menzerna Super Finish PO 106 FA for polishing. You also need to choose the correct pad for the level of cutting you want to do. The Menzerna did not do much to deep swirls or scratches which is why I had to step it up. Sounds like you need to.
Wait but thats what I said in the beginning is I am using 105 like you are with an orange pad...... I also use Menzerna for finish haha but yea the 105 is not doing the trick I think i might need to go up a level.
I have tried lots of products. This place has the best stuff for complete detail. They have everything. He shows videos on how to use all of his products correctly. Here is a link for a 3 step process with a flex XC3401 polisher. It will not burn through your paint if used correctly. Just watch the video. He also sells portacable kits. You will love the results. The detail spray is the best too. Adam's Basic Flex XC 3401 VRG Polisher Kit
Thanks guys for the feedback so far.... this is great stuff to look into. What about the wet sand? If I wet sand then its all about maintaining from there right? Figured 15 years of people washing and driving it, would be great to have a fresh start.
The best polish in the world, with that Porter Cable toy polisher, is like the awesome stereo / cheap speakers thing.
I would upgrade your machine first, then upgrade your polish if you're still not there. To a professional, the PC is a detail tool, not a whole car tool.
I think the reason places like Griot's sells them is to attract for one the detail crowd that are doing small jobs, and two, to attract those that don't want to spend $250+ dollars for a machine that can correct an entire car. But then they find out it really isn't a big enough tool.
Good news is, you'll have them both!
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coiner of biggest, sprinkler boy coiner of ~TommyWesterner~ discoverer that the 2 button rep system has too many options
Yea ive had the porter cable for like 5 years anyways time to upgrade haha maybe ill ask Santa Wife to get it for me. I hate how the porter cable wont even barely spin the detail pad when you press down a little so yea basically a toy.
Yea ive had the porter cable for like 5 years anyways time to upgrade haha maybe ill ask Santa Wife to get it for me. I hate how the porter cable wont even barely spin the detail pad when you press down a little so yea basically a toy.
So you even have the "old" one more than likely. I think they upgraded it a few years ago to unpussify it a bit. Still a toy
And that is the exact reason I call it a toy; you can't push down on it at all. The others get after it with a pad 2 to 3 times the surface area.
You also have to factor in with the cost of the $250+ tool, the pads etc. I bought the Edge system, which was discontinued when 3M bought them. So, I stocked up and have a life time supply.
-> $250 tool
-> $100 in polishes
-> $150 in pads
See why people by the PC kits with everything for $150?
Dave yea that makes sense I got it as a gift before as well so I will just give it to my little brother to mess around with and step up my game.
On another note.... should I still consider a wet sand or do you believe the right tools will get these swirl marks out. I know logic says yes it probably should but I guess my question is based around the age of the car and assuming they have been there awhile and accumlated in depth or severity? I dont know.
I'd avoid wet sanding. Only if it is a repaint and you have orange peal in the paint. I would sooner go with an aggressive pad then break out the sand paper.
I just got mine back after a 3 day extensive paint correction and detail. Then they added something called Opti-coat...basically an applied clear. Supposed to be more resistant to dust/scratches/swirls than the soft factory clear...and no polishing/waxing for up to a year.
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