I have so little room between my tires and my intercooler pipes. I had to run front wheel spacer to keep the tires from rubbing.
The turbo looks like they will be super close as well. Might just be the way I'm viewing them.
Joel, I disconnected the sway bar and removed the shocks and turned the wheel all the way to the passenger side or driver side and jacked up the wheel/tire as high as it can go and there is plenty of clearance between the tire and the compressor cover.
The thing to remember is that when the wheel is cranked all the way to the passenger side, if the car were rolling, all the weight would go to the driver front tire compressing the driver side suspension where the back edge of the wheel is nowhere near the turbo. The opposite would hold true if the wheel were to be cranked all the way to the driver side compressing the passenger side suspension where again, the back edge of the tire is nowhere the turbo.
If the wheel is turned that far, I doubt the speed the car could go would be more than 5 MPH before the front end would massively understeer.......
I guess my point is I am saying is that there is no real world condition that would be able to compress the passenger wheel/tire when the wheel is turned all the way to that side and the same for the driver side that could cause contact between the tire and the compressor cover especially with the shocks and sway bars hooked up.
For the new Evolution Series System, the turbo is placed far back enough that the compressor cover is behind the circumference of the tire so there will be no clearance issues.
The prototype build for this system I did about 2.5 years ago had the turbos placed more forward because of the 4" downpipes combined with how Comp puts an extra 1" of length to how far the V-Band sticks out from the turbine housing. I was also using a manifold that was nowhere as compact as my new casting that also made a packaging like you see here impossible.
I would venture to guess whomever fabbed up your turbo system did not check the range of motion the suspension and steering rack travel in relation to the piping placement. One thing I could recommend is you could put a spacer inside the boot on each side of the steering rack to limit the travel of how far the wheel turns either direction. I learned this trick from Ryan @ Paul Scharf's.
Last edited by Paolo Castellano; January 17th, 2013 at 10:32 PM.
Ohh I like the steering trick. My pipe follows the liner as tight as possible. I redid the piping myself and its much better now. I am running 19 inch wheels with intrax drop springs. Maybe that is also part of it. The only time it would rub is in a parking lot with the wheel fully cranked.
Finally had a chance to finish up my switch plate for the pump and boost. Well after it sitting for a week and excited to get to it, I went to check a couple things and it didn't work how I intended. So, I thought of another way.
My other plate that I made was unusable, so I had a had a thicker piece of aluminum cut out and had it laser etched to try something different.
Basically measured the lip on the console because I needed something to clamp on to.
Tried to figure out what angle I needed to bend the metal for when the two plates are together, they will clamp when the switches are tightened to the other plate. I experimented a couple times and found out a 30 degree bend worked best for me.
Mark and drill your holes as to how you want your switches laid out. I had to take off 5/8" of my plate because the lights were in the way.
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Castellano TT System - Evolution Series
After tightening the lower switch I slipped with the wrech and scratched to plate. So, I had to resand the plate to remove the mark, which also removed my laser etching. I kind of like it, kind of not. I was debating on painting it black and putting in some different switches, but I guess it'll do for now.
Dang...I had hoped to see some numbers in here this time. Lookin forward to seeing what it done on low boost (8psi, 14-16psi) then on kill. Going to push 30psi?
updates for february? she ready to rock or what? You have inspired my build and I have Bell intercoolers making me an air to water similar to yours. I think mine is a bit bigger but i am using a stock intake so i actually have a bit more room that you do to fit it in. I am going to run a heat exchanger right from the start though. I road race 8-10 times a year so might as well plan for it from the start. Looking forward to seeing your progress so post up! LOL
updates for february? she ready to rock or what? You have inspired my build and I have Bell intercoolers making me an air to water similar to yours. I think mine is a bit bigger but i am using a stock intake so i actually have a bit more room that you do to fit it in. I am going to run a heat exchanger right from the start though. I road race 8-10 times a year so might as well plan for it from the start. Looking forward to seeing your progress so post up! LOL
That's really cool! Did you manage to try it out yet? Post some pics, I'm curious what it looks like.
As far updates. I really don't have any at the moment.
Should be seeing something happen in the next couple of weeks. The turbo's should be shipping out Tuesday and Paolo just finished making all the jigs for all the piping so he can do the other kits for them.
Was awaiting the machine shop to finish the machining the manifolds, their machine broke, so that's been on hold. It's was fixed sometime last week and they should be shipping out next week.
In the mean time I've been working on building a roll cage for my car. I started a another thread for that I'll post more pics tonight. I'll be working on that today and tomorrow. Also building me some loops for the half shafts, I'll post some pics of that as well either today or tomorrow when I finish with them.
Unfortunately not going to make it this year, I'm really bummed about it. Only have 13 days until that event and I haven't even started installing the system yet, tuned, nor seat time. CPE ran into some minor hurdles, but they are taking care of them. It's a definite for next year though.
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So, I had to resand the plate to remove the mark, which also removed my laser etching. I kind of like it, kind of not. I was debating on painting it black and putting in some different switches, but I guess it'll do for now.
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