Well I thought I was going to be seeing a little more out of the car on the dyno today than what I ended up with. When I bought the car from the guy in Sandy Eggo he had it dynoed by I think DC performance and the dyno showed 475 RWHP & RWTQ. THe only thing I've done to the car was remove the hi flow cats, and I ended up with 455RWHP and around 495RWTQ
The guy working the dyno told me my A/F is too lean, and he thinks it should be running richer.
I will redyno when I get the Tony Danza flywheel on and I will send the computer out to get a hopped up program in it and then see what the #'s come out to.
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It is SAE corrected, but the #'s seem sorta low to me.
I'm not sure where a stock Gen 2 usually dyno's at though.
For mods I have Bellanger headers, no cats, 3" Corsa, and smooth tubes.
If I remember correctly going to a lower gear like the 3:55's will take a little away from the HP on the dyno and add a little to the TQ
It is SAE corrected, but the #'s seem sorta low to me.
I'm not sure where a stock Gen 2 usually dyno's at though.
For mods I have Bellanger headers, no cats, 3" Corsa, and smooth tubes.
If I remember correctly going to a lower gear like the 3:55's will take a little away from the HP on the dyno and add a little to the TQ
Same mods, 3.55 gears & lightweight flywheel, but a '00 creampuff 435 rwhp and 474 rwtq. SAE corrected on a Dynojet 248C.
Same mods, 3.55 gears & lightweight flywheel, but a '00 creampuff 435 rwhp and 474 rwtq. SAE corrected on a Dynojet 248C.
Well I guess I should be happy if I'm pushing more than.
If that one post that showed a before and after dyno on a C5 Vette with the stock to light weight flywheel holds true, then I can expect another 10 RWHP & TQ, and then who knows what the computer tune will do by Ron Zimmerman.
Was that the dynojet wideband? If so, don't trust it, they suck. If you want a real number, get an innovative.
I'm not sure how to tell the difference. I do know the guy had it set into the ground instead of the type that you drive up onto the ramps.
He told me that this particular DynoJet always reads the same and cost him approx $110k as opossed to the ones that are $70 or $80k
I'm not sure how to tell the difference. I do know the guy had it set into the ground instead of the type that you drive up onto the ramps.
He told me that this particular DynoJet always reads the same and cost him approx $110k as opossed to the ones that are $70 or $80k
I am talking about the Air to Fuel reader. Did he hook something up from the dyno, or did he have a stand alone that he fed into the logger.
He had a hose he stuck into the exhaust pipe and put a clip on one of the spark plug wires.
yeah...that's crap. I wouldn't trust those Air to Fuel readings. Pull the plugs and read them. If they look fine and you have no other signs of running lean, I wouldn't put a lot of stock in the readings the dyno gives.
the dynojet wideband works well if you use it properly. preferrable, put take the sensor out of the stupid air pump and put it in a o2 bung. i have dynoed 100s of cars that already had their own wideband on my dynojet (and i was OCD about maintaining the wideband), and it was always nearly dead on. there is a little lag if you run it off the air pump. also, if the air pump filters clogged it fucks your readings way up... its best to just put it in a real o2 bung on the car.
im not sure why you guys are asking which wideband, the fact that its displayed on the dyno graph tells you that it was the dynojet wideband.
one thing i learned, is that the dynojet wideband, in my experience, never reads too rich... with a clogged filter or poor tubing into the exhaust it will read leaner than the car really is.
bigmike, call the dynoshop and ask them what yoru graph is if they change the correction to STD. STD correction almost always reads higher, and 20hp could be realistic depending on exact conditions... its possible the dyno numbers that were previously shown to you were STD correction.
BTW guys, it clearly says SAE correction factor of 1.01 on the graph... am i the only one that can see the graph? the car actually laid down about 1% less in uncorrected.
the smoothing is set to 5 on that graph... you would pick up a couple ponies (not for real, just on the graph) if the smoothing was set to zero.
its not a definate fact, but my opinion is with having dyno'd literally 100's of cars on the same dyno, that its possible that the wideband setup on that dyno needs maintenance and i am basing that on the fact that the wideband graph is extremely smooth in its transitions. i hardly ever seen a bolt-on viper running a A/F that smooth.
edit, i also see that was your first run. vipers heat soak and they heat soak bad. if you had just got there and strapped it down, its possible that your car was at very high temp, and its possible that the 20hp higher graph you heard of or saw from your car was on a cooled down run. a stockish viper will make a ton more power if you let it cool down, but not so much that it start changing its temp correction cals... just enough that the intake mani isnt 210 degrees or whatever those things sit at, i cant remember... but i do remember if you let them cool down for a few you will see more power.
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'03 350z
Last edited by phunk : February 21st, 2008 at 10:47 PM.
the dynojet wideband works well if you use it properly. preferrable, put take the sensor out of the stupid air pump and put it in a o2 bung. i have dynoed 100s of cars that already had their own wideband on my dynojet (and i was OCD about maintaining the wideband), and it was always nearly dead on. there is a little lag if you run it off the air pump. also, if the air pump filters clogged it fucks your readings way up... its best to just put it in a real o2 bung on the car.
im not sure why you guys are asking which wideband, the fact that its displayed on the dyno graph tells you that it was the dynojet wideband.
one thing i learned, is that the dynojet wideband, in my experience, never reads too rich... with a clogged filter or poor tubing into the exhaust it will read leaner than the car really is.
bigmike, call the dynoshop and ask them what yoru graph is if they change the correction to STD. STD correction almost always reads higher, and 20hp could be realistic depending on exact conditions... its possible the dyno numbers that were previously shown to you were STD correction.
BTW guys, it clearly says SAE correction factor of 1.01 on the graph... am i the only one that can see the graph? the car actually laid down about 1% less in uncorrected.
the smoothing is set to 5 on that graph... you would pick up a couple ponies (not for real, just on the graph) if the smoothing was set to zero.
its not a definate fact, but my opinion is with having dyno'd literally 100's of cars on the same dyno, that its possible that the wideband setup on that dyno needs maintenance and i am basing that on the fact that the wideband graph is extremely smooth in its transitions. i hardly ever seen a viper running a A/F that smooth.
I only asked if it was the dynojet wideband because I have seen someone integrate an Innovative wideband into their dyno to read on the logging software.
the dynojet wideband works well if you use it properly. preferrable, put take the sensor out of the stupid air pump and put it in a o2 bung. i have dynoed 100s of cars that already had their own wideband on my dynojet (and i was OCD about maintaining the wideband), and it was always nearly dead on. there is a little lag if you run it off the air pump. also, if the air pump filters clogged it fucks your readings way up... its best to just put it in a real o2 bung on the car.
im not sure why you guys are asking which wideband, the fact that its displayed on the dyno graph tells you that it was the dynojet wideband.