[1TONY1]

Originally Posted by JohnnyBravo

Plum,

You and Simms are both correct. 750 rwhp is about the max for the Roe, even with all of the supporting mods. There really isn't any way around it. That blower can only flow xxx cfm of air. Period.

I'm still a big fan of the Roe for a number of reasons:

1. Cost. It is an affordable solution for those on a budget to get over 550 rwhp without a lot of other expenses.

2. Ease of installation. I installed my Roe in a friend's garage with a nice set of tools, having never even changed the spark plugs on a Viper before. It was simple and painless to do, and it forced me to learn a little bit more about the car.

3. Reliability. The unit itself is damn near bulletproof. You will find very few failures of the actual Autorotor assembly. Once tuned, the car runs like a champ and should be safe for tens of thousands of miles. Not having to worry about belt slip is an added bonus to me.

4. Streetability. The car makes massive amounts of torque and power even down low in the rpm band. I happen to love having that kind of tire shredding power available at will, without having to spin the motor all the way to redline in every gear to get it. I modulate traction with my right foot. I'd rather have it instantaneously than have to wait for it. The car is a beast from basically any rpm.

Here's where it gets sticky. In my opinion, the Roe maxes out somewhere around 750 rwhp. If you know at the BEGINNING that you could be happy with that amount of power or less, it's a great bang for the buck. If you even THINK you might want more, then maybe it's not such a bargain.

However, it is a great band-aid for my speed addiction. I knew I didn't have the patience to save up $15k or $30k for a tuner Paxton kit or a TT kit. So instead, I spent the $8k and got the Roe. Then I bought some headers for $1k. Then I bought some rockers for $900. Now I'm doing the heads and manifold. I will end up spending $15k or so, I'm sure. But it seems less painless doing it over time. Furthermore, the heads/manifold, exhaust, fuel system, VEC2, etc are NOT WASTED even if I change over to a Paxton or twin turbos. It certainly can't hurt to put a Paxton or TT's on a car that already has all of those things, so I'm not going backwards on costs.

The only thing that would not be reusable or be a benefit is the actual Roe blower itself. And there is still some recoverable money out of that.

I just did the car in stages and made sure that everything I bought could still be used later on if I ever changed my setup.

If you're patient and you know what you want at the front end, then TT's are proabably the best way to go. If you're impatient or unsure, a Roe is a great start and the supporting mods aren't wasted even if you change the type of forced induction later.

Just my $.02.

And for the record, I'm still calling BS on 925 crank hp on a Roe.

Great post !!

After I did my heads/cam/pulley my car mph'd the same as before with nitrous. That nitrous dyno was 790/950. Both runs were at Bradenton. While I doubt it's at 790 it shouldn't be very far away, ofcourse no where near the 950tq.
With 93 octane timing, Kumhos and a "not cold" road from any roll....traction isn't an issue. It sticks, it goes.