Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fast400
I'd rather part ways than haggle over who's going to pay for what. I should have done more research prior to this abortion of a vehicle. I pretty much blame myself. I could easily have a fully done TT viper for what I have in this POS that isn't even currently running. It's bad when 80% of the miles on your vehicle were done driving back and forth to the tuner.
|
I understand your position, and dont know if this was done before/after you acquired the truck.
However, there is only one way a crank centerline gets moved: SLOPPY WORK. It was not bored close enough to size, and was finish honed removing too much material, effectively moving the centerline into the softer block, away from the caps. Either that, or it was set up incorrectly from the start. Either way, no excuse.
If it was your dollar that went into doing it, you should certainly be persuing it. If you bought the truck that way, thats a much tougher position, and I can understand that.
If it was on your dime, go to an independant and measure it, see how far its out using your OEM caps as a guide if you have them. If its into the block any more than .003, you have a solid case for getting a new block. When it happened to us, it was out a solid .010, and when showed to the responsible machine shop in writing and on their own bench, they buckled and payed for it in about 5 minutes, knowing it was full well on them. Ever since, we hold our (new) machine shops hand with every engine, and I double check every engine myself. We also have decided to never sub-out our engine rebuilds, knowing that machine shops dont often look at these engines the way we do.
These are not chevy blocks. These are not iron blocks. These are not dime a dozen. Dont treat them like that, or you will be sorry! They dont have a dozen different O/S main bearings to chose from. they have ONE size. Screw up the mains twice, and the block is toast, no matter what- and those O/S mains wont even work in some cases/build types.